UNLADYLIKE: What if Rei Kawakubo had a cup with Banksy…

2022-05-11 0 By

Kawakubo will turn 80 in 2022.As a world-renowned fashion icon, Rei Kawakubo has been an icon for generations, including my post-80s partner, UNLADYLIKE creator and designer Cui Zhuojun,This includes Melo, a post-00s employee of Dover Street Market in Singapore whom she met through Xiao Hongshu.All her life, Rei Kawakubo believed in this attitude: MY ENERGY COMES FROM FREEDOM.Freedom gives me power.She even printed this Slogan on the bag of her self-created brand CDG and on the fashionable shoes co-branded with VANS.Cui Zhuojun watched the movie Nara again one day and had a long aftertaste.He extracted the key words of “identity” and “self-identity” from the film, and quickly designed the graffiti poster of The second capsule series of UNLADYLIKE: WE ARE WHO WE ARE.The director of the phenomenally successful Call Me By Your Name later produced an American TV series called We Are Who We Are, which Is translated by Chinese fans as True Colors.But we warmly interpret it as: Be yourself.I hope you can keep warm even in your armor.Because we believe that all deep love, soft inside.But when I got my Lookbook for the new collection, I was caught off guard by the fact that Choi had scribbled the phrase in English on his hoodie…When I was in middle school, I served as the class propaganda committee member.Every time I use chalk to write the blackboard newspaper on the back wall, it comes from the enlightenment of graffiti.But when I was young, I only touched the tip of the iceberg, not the end of the universe.Many years later, I learned that across the ocean in New York City, a street artist named Brian Donnelly ventured to smuggle advertisements or posters of bus stops and phone booths (DKNY, Calvin Klein) back to his studio and inject his own skull logo elements into them.And then return it to its original location when no one is looking, hence the name “Graffiti thief”.Later, the skull symbol became more and more popular.By the time I grew up, the world knew it by its name, Kaws.But the greatest graffiti artist in the world isn’t Brian Donnelly. It’s Banksy, who was born the same year.Banksy’s work covers a wide range of political and social issues. His graffiti has set record prices at auction, museums around the world are bidding for his exhibitions, and his film Exit Through the Gift Shop was nominated for an Oscar for Best documentary.Cui threw me the source of the documentary from station B, and I immediately fell in love with Banksy.Even though the world sometimes seems like a joke, Banksy still has a sincere and loving attitude towards life.Cui is also such a good teacher and helpful friend in my heart.Me: What do you think of hoodies?Cui: Hoodie is a fashion item especially suitable for daily wear, suitable for men, women, children, fat and thin.In my opinion, you feel comfortable in hoodies for two reasons.The first is elastic cotton or knitted fabrics, which make you feel easy to wear.The second is the flabby version.But it also means that a normal hoodie can be made in a very simple way of sewing and cutting, and the fabric is very basic.So I am thinking about how to improve, for example, whether we can use better fabrics, whether we can sew with more diverse stitches, in fact, these can be solved at the technical level.What’s more, regular hoodies seem to lack interest, and the richness of the mix is diminished.Me: The hoodie on the market feels more like playing with matching colors.Cui: So I hope UNLADYLIKE can make a breakthrough in the style of hoodie.Round 1 Me: Let’s talk about the first hoodie you designed for season 2 capsule collection.Cui: When you put it on the bed, you will think it looks like a small cape, but in fact, it borrowings from the flared sleeves of women’s shirts and makes natural curls, just like a film by Hirokazu Eda. It is delicate and romantic in its simplicity.It is also shorter than a regular hoodie, which increases the waist line and gives the body a Level of visual proportion.Me: So while UNLADYLIKE promotes the idea of being genderless, this hoodie is more suitable for girls.Cui: Yes, this sweater is more feminine.Then you notice the psychedelic print on the hoodie. Does it have a graffiti wall effect and make you feel tipsy?I don’t want to make it pure street, such as drawing a big skeleton, printing a big beauty, etc., that is too flat and straight, lost the sense of high street.Round 2 Me: What about the second hoodie?Cui: black and white two I each matched knickers of a knitted fabrics can build a suit, more can reveal street fashion.But I will use plant color for the white style, not for the black one.This design has been made into a unisex size that I can wear.Then you notice that the two sides of it are split, so it looks like two pieces of cloth on the body, which is actually a reference to rei Kawakubo’s early design.Such side leakage design besides loose and comfortable outside, more important is convenient wear build.You can imagine wearing a printed T-shirt or striped shirt underneath, and then putting on the hoodie, it creates more layers.Me: Emmmmmm, can I write about your reference to Rei Kawakubo frankly?Cui: can, no problem, draw lessons from the master why can’t (what’s more is my idol).(low & # 39;◡ & # 39;●) Finally, after all the samples have been made and the Lookbook has cost a lot of money, why change the prints even more — I wanted the graffiti elements to reflect more attitude and spirit.As for the white pattern, it is the Logo printing of an osmanthus flower on the top, and the large area of plant dyeing on the bottom. The contrast is somewhat similar to the traditional composition of “A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains” performed by the Dance “Only This Green” in the Spring Festival Gala.As for the bold black graffiti “ORDINARY PERSON”, I wonder whether we can live our own attitude even though most of us are ORDINARY people.Round 3 Me: Tell me about the third design.Cui: I want to make this hoodie into a pure matching, more interesting trend item, keeping the shape of the hoodie, but no sleeves and hem at all, just some strings.In fact, both the East and the West had such wearing method in ancient times. Two pieces of cloth were tied together with a rope to form a blouse.I want to say more about the English word “WE ARE WHO WE ARE”.I didn’t mean to give in.This is similar to the above “ORDINARY PERSON”, just like the song “ORDINARY Road” sung by Pu Shu, facing his own fragility and smallness bravely, even though he has to go through trials and hardships, he has no regrets and calm.Let’s talk about the circular pattern of the substrate.It’s one of my personal favorites, and rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto use it a lot.The circle has special meaning in science and religion. For example, most of the celestial bodies in the universe are round. For example, in Buddhism and Taoism, there is the concept of “perfection”.The sense of circular form is also particularly rich.I think we’ll see it in our pieces in the future, like the Wave dots from The Capsule collection of UNLADYLIKE Season 1.Round 4 Me: So our second capsule hoodie has 3 designs.Cui: But I also want to add something about this T-shirt, because it also uses elements of street graffiti.”DISMALAND” is actually a homage to Banksy’s joke about DISNEYLAND.Banksy’s initiative took place 7 years ago. Together with several artist friends, Banksy built an abandoned seaside paradise into a playground called “DISMALAND” — “blacken” the fantasy fairy tale world created by Disney at one stroke. For example, Banksy dropped her mouth and smiling face, and cut off the mermaid’s tail with a knife…I was looking through the book to see this section can be too amazed, wow, actually can do so!I think Banksy’s amazing part is that as soon as he changes one part, the original taste and interest of the whole picture will be changed.Deconstruction, ridicule or allegorical, a creator’s thinking can be special…There’s a sense of sophistication in it, which is cool in itself.UNLADYLIKE, an independent designer brand advocating non-gender concept, was founded by three Young Chinese people in 2021.UNLADYLIKE blurs the boundaries of gender, breaks people’s prejudice against gender, emphasizes the practical wearability and wearing scenes of clothing, and pays attention to the cultural symbols expressed in the design as well as the identity of the wearer.UNLADYLIKE first exhibited in AW2021 Shanghai Fashion Week, and won the contract designer award in YINGER PRIZE Global Designer Competition, and will launch capsule co-branded collection together.At present, UNLADYLIKE has settled in many fashion collection stores and fashion buyer stores in Beijing/Shanghai/Chengdu/Wuhan/Changsha/Xiamen and other cities.